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Product details
File Size: 2209 KB
Print Length: 312 pages
Publisher: Columbia University Press; Reprint edition (November 4, 2014)
Publication Date: November 4, 2014
Sold by: Amazon Digital Services LLC
Language: English
ASIN: B00O0FYGZ6
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The author covers the rise of Chinese-American food from a socio-cultural perspective that interweaves American economic development and how Chinese immigrants found a niche catering to the demand for inexpensive restaurant food. Maybe only a person who likes sociology, history and Chinese food would find such a book fascinating. Then again, it is hard to resist a scholarly exploration of how chop suey (apparently representing what is now referred to as "stir fry") presaged Big Macs.
Good solid read, although who orders chop suey anymore
Very rigorous study, with citation of the documents and sources used. Well organized and with a clear thesis. This book has credibility.
Thus is a great book that really quantifies his food is at the center of globalization.
Good book.
Having read the entertaining social history of Chinese food in America, Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States by Andrew Coe, I was expecting something similar in Chop Suey, USA. Although these books are almost identically titled, they are not at all similar. Yong Chen's is a personal and sometimes impassioned, look at the conditions of Chinese immigrants in 19th and 20th century America, the attitudes they faced from other Americans, and how Chinese food was enthusiastically accepted by all Americans. Professor Chen grew up in China and came to America in the 1990s as a graduate student, planning to return to China when he had earned his doctorate in American history. Instead, he made America his home and has been here ever since, first on the East Coast, and now on the West Coast.The first half of the book documents the tough time Chinese immigrants and even the first few generations had. Racism was the norm and it left the Chinese community with only a few career options -- laundry, being domestic cooks, and restaurants. When white and black America discovered that the food in the Chinese restaurants was plentiful and inexpensive, they took to it enthusiastically. Professor Chen explores the rapid spread of Chinese restaurants through the country and compares it to the rapid acceptance of American fast food in China in the past few decades.Later in the book, we learn more about the evolution of the Chinese restaurant and Chinese cuisine in America. Chop Suey, USA covers a lot of ground, about social trends, race relations, assimilation, cookbooks, and classes in America. If you are expecting a book about why America likes chow mein or who invented fortune cookies, look elsewhere -- this is a deeper, multi-layered look at the people behind the food.(Thanks to NetGalley for a digital review copy.)
Like many American, I *love* Chinese food, but I've never given much thought to the long and winding route it took on the road to popularity in the United States. "Chop Suey, USA" author Yong Chen has spent the last thirty years becoming an expert in the history of Chinese food in America and goes deeper into the subject than anything I've read before - about any food for that matter.To Chen, Chinese food in America reached such heights not because of its culinary merits, but because of socioeconomic factors. He recognizes that the spread of this particular cuisine enriched the American palate, but focuses more on the challenges Chinese immigrants faced as they worked to find their place in a foreign culture.The amount of research that must have gone into this analysis is astounding. Chen references everything from the earliest cookbooks to 19th century opinions on the staying power of Chinese food, all mixed with his own personal experiences. If you're strickly a foodie, don't expect this to be a love letter to Chinese food, as Chop Suey, USA does not exactly wax poetic about flavors and ingredients, but takes an anthropological, scholarly approach instead. In my opinion, this is a much more interesting approach and I hope to read more books like it!
Many non-Asian immigrant mothers, grandmothers, and children took in laundry and cleaned toilets, a fact that entirely escapes Yong Chen's victimization treatise. And, most heinously, he most dedicatedly and ignorantly ignores that in this country of, what he calls, an overabundance of food, there are long lines at the food pantries, and many who never make it that far. Too bad that, in all that research, Yong Chen is immune from socio-economic context. Usually, if I read something like this, I would learn, and not be completely put off by the author, and I would disparage anyone who would use words like "elitist," or "biased ethnocentric," to describe the author's point of view. But not this time.
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